George Washington, Namesake of our Round Table

May 2019


McBurney Recommendation: Visiting the Amazing Forts of El Morro and San Cristobal in San Juan, Puerto Rico

In the first week of April, my wife and I visited San Juan, Puerto Rico. Its Old Town is nicely preserved. It is bounded by two outstanding forts: El Morro at the tip of the peninsula facing San Juan’s harbor, and Castillo San Cristobal, closer to the core of Old Town. A 30-minute walk separates them. Spain used these forts to defend against British attack during the American Revolutionary War.

El Morro, whose fortifications were started in 1533, is the most impressive fort I have ever toured (even more than our great Fort Ti!). San Cristobal was started in 1634. At one point it was the largest European fortification in the Americas. King Charles III of Spain, fearful of British attack in the American Revolutionary War, caused major improvements to be made to it, completing them in 1783. While El Morro is the more spectacular fort, San Cristobal has more cannon and artifacts. 85% of the old wall that connected the two forts and surrounded Old Town still exist and still have numerous sentry boxes in them. Great Britain did not attack San Juan during the American Revolutionary War, but tried and failed during the Napoleonic War.

The United States attacked these forts during the Spanish-American War, but peace was declared before the U.S. Navy’s ships could complete the job. The U.S. received Puerto Rico as part of the peace settlement, and San Juan served as a major port for the U.S. Navy for many years. El Morro has three huge observation posts from World War II (well hidden) that may be the largest ones still in existence in the Americas.

Overall, my wife and I enjoyed Puerto Rico very much. It really helps that we took a four-hour, direct flight from BWI, and that it is an American territory (so no passport or other entry hassles, and US courts rule). We felt safe going anywhere in the day time, including beautiful beaches populated mostly by locals. We also enjoyed snorkeling and the rainforest. The people were friendly and glad to have mainland tourists spending money. All locals spoke some English, but surprisingly, many of them (mostly older) were not close to being fluent (so seems more like a foreign country). Puerto Rico is still suffering from Hurricane Maria, particularly in job losses that have not returned. Out of a population of 4 million, 500,000 left after Maria, most for job reasons.





A sentry box at El Morro with Coast Guard ship passing.





The oldest part of El Morro fortress, dating to 1553. Nearby is a shell still embedded in the wall, fired by an American warship in 1898.






Cannon at El Morro.


-- Christian McBurney